Kol Sanah wenta Tayyeb [كلسنةوأنتطيب]

It is candy-making season in Egypt. Every year the streets and shops throughout the country light up with colourful lanterns and tables of sweet delights as Rabi’ al-awwal, the third month in the Islamic calendar rolls around. Preparations begin with making tons of sugary morsels that consist of sugar coated peanuts, chickpeas, split-peas, coconut and sesame seeds, which are eaten in celebration of the birthday of Prophet Muhammed (PBUH), Mawlid al-Nabi. This year Mawlid al-Nabi is on November 30th.

The most popular candy in Egypt that symbolized the approaching birthday of celebrations of Mawlid al-Nabi is the Arouset el-Moulid doll (bride of the moulid or sugar bride) and the sultan on horseback, also made of sugar. Although satin-sequin plastic dolls are beginning to overtake the popularity of the sugar doll still one can venture through the alleyways of Share’ Bab el-Bahr and find workshops busily making dolls with entire families crafting and decorating dresses for the Arouset el-Moulid.

Share’ Bab el-Bahr

The most favored folklore is from the Fatimid Period (909-1171) with the legend that a Fatimid ruler during the mawlid rode his horse through the center of Cairo while one of his wives clothed in a white dress and decorated tiara walked next to him. The candy makers of Cairo then crafted sugar dolls and sultan on horseback to commemorate the scene and thus the two images became a symbol of the festival. Another folklore is that when soldiers went off to war they were promised to marry a beautiful girl upon their return and were presented with a sugar doll bride, while the tale also included the story that candy dolls were made to honor the soldiers for their bravery. Whatever the story, the making of sugar dolls has been passed down from generation to generation and has become a special confectionery to celebrate Mawlid al-Nabi.

Watch movie in 1955 about the “Mawlid Bride” starring Tahia Carioca. This film is a sad story to a doomed Arouset el-Moulid.  Fantasy with the devil, deceit, desire, and unrequited love… classic Egyptian music and song  and a glimpse into Egyptian society during mid-twentieth century.

The sugar dolls and sultan on horseback are made of sugar. The sugar is boiled and put into molds that makes a solid sugar form.  The dressing of the doll is a laborious undertaking. According to Abdel Ghani Al-Nabawi Al-Shall’s book, Arouset Al Mulid,(translated by Amira el-Noshokaty), “The dolls are given kohl (black eyeliner) to emphasize their eyes as well as pink powder to highlight their cheekbones. This Pharaonic makeup is coupled with typical Mamluk attire: a tight vest with long, generous sleeves. The vest fans out into a long, spacious dress covering the doll’s ivory body which weighs the doll down. The doll poses with her hands at her waist to show off her beauty. Colorful paper fans hug her back like wings, symbolizing feathered fans used to cool the caliphate. Fransha, or frills, are said to reflect the Fatimid influence, while gold and silver shimmering papers are fashioned in the likeness of the kirdan, a necklace typically known as being worn by Egyptian villagers.” To decorate one doll can take an entire day.

Arouset el-Moulid season is short and it only comes once a year so the entire family gets involved in making the beautiful and elaborate attire for the dolls.

In recent years, plastic dolls have flooded the market to take the place of the traditional sugar candy brides. Although the plastic doll forms are said to be imported from Asia, here is a video that claims all parts and clothing are made in Egypt.Watch this interesting video: Beyond the Factory: The Moulid Doll Maker

Arouset el-Moulid is depicted in dance, art and sculptures. The famous Egyptian sculptor, Gamal el-Sigini (1917-1977) featured Egypt in most of his works and used different symbols of Egypt as in this sculpture using Arouset el-Moulid  is an expression of hope, encouragement, and love. This sculpture stood, previously, on Share’ Gameat al-Dewal al-Arabiya in Mohendiseen but it disappeared during the Revolution of 2011.

Before leaving the alleyways of Bab el-Bahr, a young girl named , Amar, meaning moon, came up to me and wanted to take a picture. So we posed and it was one of those moments when two people shared pure happiness.

**All rights reserved by Lesley Lababidi. To copy or re-produce photography and/or writings, written permission from Lesley Lababidi is required.

If it is autumn in Egypt, it is date season! Red and yellow panicles hang from date palms throughout Egypt. The date palm, Phoenix dactylifera, is probably the oldest cultivated tree in the world. Archeologist found evidence of cultivation of the date palm more than 7000 years ago in Egypt and Mesopotamia. Today, Egypt is the number one producer of dates in the world producing yearly around 1.7 million tonnes.

Whether traveling in the Sahara, or Northern Nigeria, or the Pamir Mountains, I always keep a stash of dried dates in my backpack.  They are high in sugar content, fiber, potassium, and protein; a hungry traveller can find peace and sustenance in a cup of tea and a handful of dates.